Buenos Aires, Argentina

 

Embarking on a whirlwind visit to Buenos Aires, we had only a single day to reacquaint ourselves with the city's vibrant energy before setting sail for the Antarctic. Opting for a free half-day city tour, our journey began in the Retiro district, weaving its way to Recoleta, where our chosen hotel was. Little did I know that my day would be marked by an unexpected turn.

Amidst the bustling excitement near the tour meeting point the Theater Colon, a sudden encounter with a young thief left me momentarily stunned as he snatched from my neck a cherished gold chain, a memento of over 30 years. Tempted to give chase, a moment of clarity prevailed, reminding me of my bum knee, the wisdom of age, and the potential dangers lurking in the unfamiliar surroundings. This unexpected episode served as a stark reminder that Buenos Aires, once hailed as the Paris of South America, had undergone transformations that extended beyond mere aesthetics.

Angry and depleted of my self-esteem but undeterred, our tour commenced, offering glimpses of Buenos Aires' architectural splendour. Despite a perceptible change in the city's atmosphere, marked by an increased homeless presence, pervasive graffiti, and an undertone of seediness, we still appreciated the city's beauty against this altered backdrop, perhaps a consequence of recent economic challenges.

Our knowledgeable guide led us through the streets, unveiling fascinating tidbits about Buenos Aires, including its significant Jewish population and the poignant memorials standing testament to cowardly terrorist attacks. The Plaza Embajada De Israel, now a memorial site, evoked sombre reflections on the Jewish people's resilience and the enduring impact of terrorist events.

The shadow of the Israel Embassy still remains intact where it originally stood.

Navigating through the park outside Recoleta Cemetery, we marvelled at the oldest Fig Tree, its massive branches providing shelter and seating. Don't miss the Bronze Stong Man supporting a tree branch as he receives shelter from the hot South American sun.

The Recoleta cemetery unfolded as an "Art Gallery of the Dead," with above-ground crypts housing a rich tapestry of family histories.

Signs of intrusion, such as broken-in crypt doors are everywhere.  I couldn't help but notice the beauty of these vandalized bronze doors and the sliver of stained glass inside which managed to captivate me. This vandalism is most likely attributed to the desperate homeless willing to sleep with the dead.

Another casualty of the economic downturn.

Stained-glass interior.

Eva Peron beloved by the lower economic classes is in the Duarte Family crypt which is hard to find especially when one is searching for Peron.  This oversight happened to us in 2011 and we missed her crypt.

Eva Peron was made famous to me by the movie Evita played by Madonna. Most people seek her crypt out throughout the copious row upon row of elaborate and stunning crypts.

One can spend hours gawking and snapping photos and this cemetery is a must-see for any tourist visiting Buenos Aires.

Outside and inside of Recoleta Cemetary, crime, evidently on the rise, is seen in raised platforms hosting mini police stations strategically overlooking city areas.

Yet, amidst the challenges, Buenos Aires retained pockets of charm, with the English Tower facing the Falkland Island War memorial, a poignant reminder of still bitter contention.

Guards posted on the Falkland Island memorial face the English Tower.

Amidst these experiences, we indulged in the culinary delights of Buenos Aires, savouring the renowned beef and wines that the city is celebrated for. Though changed, the city's allure and complexity endured, leaving us with a sense of nostalgia for its original glory, a journey it undoubtedly continues to search for.

Argentinian Beef is well known for its taste.

Rock Beer is a seedy but splendid hang-out with good wine and beer was just across the street from our hotel.